Intensive course in high-alpine mountaineering: Bishorn 4153 m

Advanced course in climbing 4000ers (CH) | 4 days

Want to make your dreams of climbing 4000er peaks a reality but don’t yet have the necessary skills? This advanced course promises in-depth, hands-on training for high-alpine expeditions. You’ll be carrying out some practical exercises on the glacier to help you expand your knowledge of ice, equipment and alpine rescue. The highlight is the summit of the Bishorn (4153 m), which will require you to apply your new skills.

Course content
  • - Glaciers: using crampons, ice axes and anchoring techniques
  • - Navigating mountain terrain with map, compass, GPS and guide literature
  • - Materials and equipment
  • - Alpine rescue and hazards
  • - Crevasse rescue, hoists and self-rescue
Objective

After completing this course, you will be able to plan simple high-alpine expeditions on your own and participate in difficult guided expeditions.

Technique
beginner-intermediate

Experience from basic rock and ice course, alpine expeditions for beginners or comparable training required.

Condition
beginner-intermediate

Duration from 4 to 6 hours, up to approx.1,000 vertical meters, approx. 250 vertical meters per hour.

Group

3-6 participants per mountain guide

Meeting place

10.30 a.m. Turtmann train station (train arrival 10.20 a.m. Turtmann train station)

Departure

Approx. 3.30 p.m. Zinal

Note

Technical material (ropes etc.) is provided by the ZERMATTERS Alpine School.

The offer is held in German. Therefore, a basic understanding of German is important. Our mountain guides have a basic knowledge of English and can provide the necessary information in English. Often there are helpful guests on the tours and courses who are happy to help with the translation.

Find out more about the right equipment here

Services
Included
  • Guiding and supervision by a mountain guide
  • Accommodation with half board: 1 x hut (base camp)
  • 15% discount on mammut.com
Not included
  • Travel to the course
  • Rental Equipment
  • Transport ca. CHF 30.- (transfer to Gruben)
  • Snacks and drinks
  • Hut tax CHF 12.- per night if not a SAC/Alpine Club member
  • Contribution to the Travel Guarantee Fund (0.25% on total amount)
Program

Day 1 Meeting point 10:30 am at railway station in Turtmann. Distribute rental gear, afterwards transfer to Gruben in the Turtmanntal. From there, hike to the Turtmann Hut, where you will then spend the afternoon refreshing the basics from the ice training course. To wrap up the day, you will enjoy aperitifs and a cosy overnight stay in the hut. (Distance: 5.5 km, walking time: 2.5 - 3 hrs, ascent: 700 m)

Day 2 Today, you’ll have the opportunity to apply what you learned on the previous day on our climb to the Tracuit Hut. You will also get to expand on your experience with practical exercises: glacier crossings, short rope-secured sections and impressive views of the glacier all make the climb to the Tracuit Hut an exciting adventure. From the top, you can then survey the ascent that you’ll be taking on the following day. (Distance: 5.5 km, walking time: 4 hrs, climb: 800 m)

Day 3 Today, you’ll have a chance to apply your new skills on your climb to the summit of the Bishorn (4153 m). you’ll be setting out from the hut right at daybreak. Shortly thereafter, it’s time to put on your crampons and harness. Crossing the glacier and along the crevasses, you make your way to the summit, where you can enjoy what is probably the most stunning panorama anywhere in the Valais. Descend to the Tracuit Hut. (Distance: 5.5 km, walking time: 6-8 hrs, ascent/descent: 900 m gain/loss)

Day 4 The final day is dedicated to alpine rescue: The guide will lead you through a number of scenarios to make sure you’re well-prepared should things ever take a turn for the worse. Then descend to Zinal. (Distance: 4.5 km, walking time 2.5-3 hrs, descent: 1600 m)

equipment
Rental equipment

Our mountain guide will bring the ordered rental equipment to the meeting place. The following equipment can be rented:

Please note that the backpack with the equipment does not weigh more than 8 to 10 kg (crampons, ice axe, harness weigh about 1.5 kg).

  • Climbing harness with 1x safelock carabiner
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons with ABS
Technical equipment
  • Climbing harness with 1x safelock carabiner (or 2x screw carabiners)
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons with ABS
  • Backpack approx. 30l with rain cover
  • Gaiter (optional)
  • Telescopic trekking poles (optional)

Own technical equipment, which is not listed here, can be taken to the course.

Clothing
  • 1x Hardshell jacket and pants (wind- and waterproof)
  • 1x Mountaineering or trekking pants
  • 1x Soft shell and/or fleece jacket
  • 1x Short/long functional underwear
  • 1x Cap/headband and 1x hat
  • 2 pairs of gloves (1 thin pair, 1 warm, windproof and waterproof pair)
  • 1x Functional socks and 1x spare socks
  • Hiking shoes or mountaineering shoes (at least ankle-high, hard sole)
Overnight cottage
  • Own toiletries, ear plugs if required
  • Clothes to wear in the hut (Minimum)
  • Slipper socks are at the hut
  • Sleeping bag liner made of silk or cotton (for hygienic reasons)
  • Pillow (60x60)
  • Towel
  • SAC/Alpine Club member card (if available)
Food
  • Breakfast and dinner at the hut
  • Tea an lunch must be brought or can be bought at the hut
  • Snacks (e.g. energy bars, dried fruit, dried meat)
Various
  • Sunglasses
  • Sun cream and lip cream (SPF 30 or higher)
  • Camera (optional)
  • Half fare travelcard (if existing)
  • Thermos flask made from break-proof material
  • Headlamp with new batteries
  • Small medicinal supplies for personal requirements
We are happy to advise you

Our team is available by phone from Monday to Friday from 09.00 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to 17.00.

CH +41 (0)62 769 81 83

alpineschool@mammut.com

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